SA Day #3: Robben Island

This morning Becks and I were up bright and early to catch the 9am ferry to Robben Island, a prison off of the V&A Harbor in Cape Town. For the fist two centuries after Dias first rounded the Cape of Storms in 1488, Robben Island was used to feed the sailors on passing ships. It was also used as a postbox for their letters and occasionally as a prison for miscreant sailors. During the period of Dutch rule at the Cape (1652 - 1806), the Island continued to be used as a pantry, but also became increasingly important as a prison, mainly for Cape criminals, black and white and political prisoners from the East Indies. It was during this period that the commercial exploitation of the Island's natural resources began. Limestone and shells were used for lime burning and stone and slate were collected for buildings.

In 1806, the island was used as a prison, under the British Government. Prisoners were made up of those awaiting banishment, dangerous Cape criminals and political prisoners from the frontiers of the growing colony. Then, in 1846, the prison on Robben Island was closed. The prisoners were sent to do hard labour in mainland convict stations. They were especially used in roadbuilding. In the old prison buildings the colonial government set up a hospital. It housed chronically sick patients, lunatics and lepers. All but the lepers did hard labour. The men collected rocks to build a new jetty; the women sewed for the government. Robben Island acted mainly as a hospital in the nineteenth century. It had become quite thriving communities, with its own newspaper, the Robben Island Times. The island had also a couple of teachers, priests, medical staff and storekeepers.

Then, in 1961 (until 1991), the island once more became a maximum-security prison, housing political prisoners considered most threatening to the stability of the apartheid government. The most famous of these was arguably Nelson Mandela, the first black president of SA, who was incarcerated on the island from 1964-1982. During his years in prison, Mandela's reputation grew steadily and he became accepted as the most significant black leader in South Africa and a potent symbol of resistance as the anti-apartheid movement. The pictures included are of his cell. It's incredible to think that such a globally influential man was kept in a space no larger most NYC walk-in closets for over 27 years. While Robben Island has been characterized as 'South Africa's Alcatraz' and an impregnable place of banishment for those opposing the status quo, I think it also it has also can symbolize the great spirit of resistance against colonialism, injustice, and oppression.

I left the island with a deeper appreciation and understanding of the meaning of freedom--politically and socially--and also with a greater respect and admiration for those who have not had that freedom that I was born into and have subsequently had to fight for it. It is places like Robben Island that open our perspectives to broader meanings of simple concepts like freedom that perhaps many of us take for granted...

SA day #1: Moyo’s, Goldfish, and Spier.

Arrived in SA yesterday. 12. Long. Hours. On. Plane! But I arrived to a welcoming Ritchie and Becks, mocha in hand for me ☺ First day was incredible. As we drove from Cape Town airport to Camps Bay (the suburb where Beck’s family lives), I could see all of the scenery I had heard so much about prior to arriving—imposing mountains overlooking sharp blue-green water, a mixture of palm trees and pine trees, and sunny (a word you don’t often say in Edinburgh) piercing blue skies. Rebecca’s house sits overlooking the water, with a picturesque patio on the back overlooking the ocean. Her patio is one of those rare places you could sit for hours, staring off into the ocean—or gazing over the mountains—contemplating life, beauty, and time. Her house reminds me of a gorgeous beach get-away home you might about in an edition of ‘Coastal Living’ magazine. The atmosphere is warm and inviting, oozing of ‘family’ – another element I have missed very much in Edinburgh. We arrive, relax for a bit, have lunch and are off again quite quickly for an afternoon and evening at Moyo’s restaurant at Spier wine estates near Stellenbosch for dinner, live African dancing for entertainment, and a Goldfish concert.

Moyo’s was truly a dining experience! Upon first arriving, we went to the cheetah sanctuary located next to the restaurant. We got to see several different breeds of wild cheetahs, rare owls, and the ugliest/scariest (and only) black eagle I have ever seen—only to be informed by Beck’s boyfriend, Ritchie, that that one was merely ‘a juvenile!!!!!’ When you arrive into the actual restaurant, there are ladies waiting to paint your face and you are escorted to a table under a massive tent, with a stage on one end and a seemingly never-ending buffet along the side. During dinner, there is authentic African dancing (I have NEVER seen women move their hips and bums the way these women could!!! I was really tempted to ask for lessons…) and you have your choice of about 100 different foods from the buffet. I had been told prior to arriving that South African food was the best in the world—and even the food that’s not unique to SA (chicken, etc) just tastes better. I was skeptical, but after my first starter from Moyo’s I was convinced. The mussels were the BIGGEST mussels I have ever seen—and remember, I’m from the East Coast of the US, have eaten at the best restaurants in NYC, and am studying in Edinburgh—so I have eaten a lot of mussels. Then I was told that these mussels were comparatively ‘small’ for SA—that I might go to the trans-Skye to see ‘real’ SA mussels. And not only were the mussels massive, but they were the most succulent mussel meat I have ever tasted. The calamari was perfectly grilled. The varieties of breads made me want to forget the rest of the week in Cape Town and instead offer to volunteer in Moyo’s kitchen for free food for a week. I ate Ox Tail, Springbok, and Potjie. All fabulous!!!! The dinner was only made better by the company—Becks and Ritchie, and Beck’s friends Steve and Christine, who were lovely.

After dinner, we danced the night away (or at least till midnight when I thought I was going to fall asleep on the ground—I only had 2 hours of sleep and was really jet-lagged) to Goldfish. You must check out Goldfish’s music—for lack of ability to give a description that would do the band justice, I am just going to include their website on this post:

http://www.goldfishlive.com/

Hope you enjoy it!

‘Grow old with me, the best is yet to come’ –Robert Browning

Another year has gone by and I have reached the ripe old age of 24. Although, in my mild immaturity, 24 years seems like a lifetime (after all, it is my lifetime!), I know that the best is indeed yet to come. This birthday, which I thought would be rather anti-climactic, has turned out to be quite the celebration and several days of joy, laughter, and fun with precious friends. Birthdays are a unique time to make a friend feel cherished, special, and valued and my friends in Edinburgh have gone far above and beyond what was necessary to make me feel that way and more.

Friday, April 16th, the Canadian next door (BB) that I’ve mentioned so many times before throughout this blog, organized a big dinner at The Bon Vivant on Thistle Street in New Town. The dinner was a surprise and many of our close friends came to celebrate. The menu was right up my alley – especially the seared pigeon breast (considering everyone knows I feel like searing all of the pigeons outside of my room every morning at Churchill House). The espresso complimented with a shot of Kahlua was a perfect balance of earthy, bold, and rich (most of you know my minor obsession with good coffee!) and the sticky toffee pudding melted in your mouth as a delicious mixture of spice, gooey toffee, and cool icing, satisfying the way a good dessert should.

The rest of the weekend was littered with all of my favorite things and surprises, such as Jess’ incredible brownie-cake with fudge icing and white chocolate chunks and Mini Beck’s famous pink and yellow-icing cupcakes.

Monday, my actually birthday, however, was the day of days. It began with a late morning visit from Britt and Jared, hands overflowing with gifts, flowers, and candy. My darling Craig had sent two dozen yellow tulips, several pounds of pick-n-mix candy, and the blue zip Edinburgh hoodie I had been eyeing. Jared and Britt bought me a beautiful print from a local artist in Edinburgh and an (‘easy’) chicken cookbook (I love chicken more than anyone else in the world, bar perhaps Rebecca Jansch.) I was then whisked away to a surprise brunch with more close friends at a tea room on Hanover Street. Lunch lasted all afternoon, followed by some shopping with Laura and Mini Becks. There were even more surprises to follow later in the evening, with Laura posting about 15 hand-cut-out sheep (I love sheep) on my door with a main sheep bleeting ‘Why I love ewe’ and a massive tray of homemade cupcakes, topped with marzipan icing (my favorite!)

Being made such a fuss over was completely unnecessary, but made this birthday the most special one to date. Perhaps they always get better as time goes on, but this is one I will certainly not forget. It is these times, in my opinion, with dear friends and family that remind us how loved we are, that life is at its best--and knowing that so many more of these kinds of memories lie ahead, I can say with much assurance that the best indeed is yet to come.

South Africa!!!!!

I AM GOING TO SOUTH AFRICA!!!!!!! SA Becks invited me down to Cape Town to visit her while she was home for Easter holiday and my mother booked me a surprise ticket with her air miles for my birthday present to go. I have never been to the African continent before—and now I am heading towards the southern-most tip of it! I leave April 25th and am staying until May 4th.

Becks has planned out a while itinerary of things for us to do while I am there. I cannot wait!!!! It’s funny because I honestly don’t recall ever meeting a South African prior to coming to Edinburgh. Yet, arriving here, I have met many! In my group of friends at the University alone, there are 5—coming from Pretoria, Cape Town, Durban, and suburbs of Johannesburg. From these friends, I am becoming increasingly educated on the politics of South Africa—from apartheid and its legacy to the AIDs epidemic there (it has the highest AIDs rate of any country in the world). It is also an incredibly interesting place historically and culturally. The country has 11 official languages! I am looking forward to learning even more while I am there – and seeing all of the beauty landscapes I have heard about and seen in pictures.