SA Day #3: Robben Island

This morning Becks and I were up bright and early to catch the 9am ferry to Robben Island, a prison off of the V&A Harbor in Cape Town. For the fist two centuries after Dias first rounded the Cape of Storms in 1488, Robben Island was used to feed the sailors on passing ships. It was also used as a postbox for their letters and occasionally as a prison for miscreant sailors. During the period of Dutch rule at the Cape (1652 - 1806), the Island continued to be used as a pantry, but also became increasingly important as a prison, mainly for Cape criminals, black and white and political prisoners from the East Indies. It was during this period that the commercial exploitation of the Island's natural resources began. Limestone and shells were used for lime burning and stone and slate were collected for buildings.

In 1806, the island was used as a prison, under the British Government. Prisoners were made up of those awaiting banishment, dangerous Cape criminals and political prisoners from the frontiers of the growing colony. Then, in 1846, the prison on Robben Island was closed. The prisoners were sent to do hard labour in mainland convict stations. They were especially used in roadbuilding. In the old prison buildings the colonial government set up a hospital. It housed chronically sick patients, lunatics and lepers. All but the lepers did hard labour. The men collected rocks to build a new jetty; the women sewed for the government. Robben Island acted mainly as a hospital in the nineteenth century. It had become quite thriving communities, with its own newspaper, the Robben Island Times. The island had also a couple of teachers, priests, medical staff and storekeepers.

Then, in 1961 (until 1991), the island once more became a maximum-security prison, housing political prisoners considered most threatening to the stability of the apartheid government. The most famous of these was arguably Nelson Mandela, the first black president of SA, who was incarcerated on the island from 1964-1982. During his years in prison, Mandela's reputation grew steadily and he became accepted as the most significant black leader in South Africa and a potent symbol of resistance as the anti-apartheid movement. The pictures included are of his cell. It's incredible to think that such a globally influential man was kept in a space no larger most NYC walk-in closets for over 27 years. While Robben Island has been characterized as 'South Africa's Alcatraz' and an impregnable place of banishment for those opposing the status quo, I think it also it has also can symbolize the great spirit of resistance against colonialism, injustice, and oppression.

I left the island with a deeper appreciation and understanding of the meaning of freedom--politically and socially--and also with a greater respect and admiration for those who have not had that freedom that I was born into and have subsequently had to fight for it. It is places like Robben Island that open our perspectives to broader meanings of simple concepts like freedom that perhaps many of us take for granted...

SA day #1: Moyo’s, Goldfish, and Spier.

Arrived in SA yesterday. 12. Long. Hours. On. Plane! But I arrived to a welcoming Ritchie and Becks, mocha in hand for me ☺ First day was incredible. As we drove from Cape Town airport to Camps Bay (the suburb where Beck’s family lives), I could see all of the scenery I had heard so much about prior to arriving—imposing mountains overlooking sharp blue-green water, a mixture of palm trees and pine trees, and sunny (a word you don’t often say in Edinburgh) piercing blue skies. Rebecca’s house sits overlooking the water, with a picturesque patio on the back overlooking the ocean. Her patio is one of those rare places you could sit for hours, staring off into the ocean—or gazing over the mountains—contemplating life, beauty, and time. Her house reminds me of a gorgeous beach get-away home you might about in an edition of ‘Coastal Living’ magazine. The atmosphere is warm and inviting, oozing of ‘family’ – another element I have missed very much in Edinburgh. We arrive, relax for a bit, have lunch and are off again quite quickly for an afternoon and evening at Moyo’s restaurant at Spier wine estates near Stellenbosch for dinner, live African dancing for entertainment, and a Goldfish concert.

Moyo’s was truly a dining experience! Upon first arriving, we went to the cheetah sanctuary located next to the restaurant. We got to see several different breeds of wild cheetahs, rare owls, and the ugliest/scariest (and only) black eagle I have ever seen—only to be informed by Beck’s boyfriend, Ritchie, that that one was merely ‘a juvenile!!!!!’ When you arrive into the actual restaurant, there are ladies waiting to paint your face and you are escorted to a table under a massive tent, with a stage on one end and a seemingly never-ending buffet along the side. During dinner, there is authentic African dancing (I have NEVER seen women move their hips and bums the way these women could!!! I was really tempted to ask for lessons…) and you have your choice of about 100 different foods from the buffet. I had been told prior to arriving that South African food was the best in the world—and even the food that’s not unique to SA (chicken, etc) just tastes better. I was skeptical, but after my first starter from Moyo’s I was convinced. The mussels were the BIGGEST mussels I have ever seen—and remember, I’m from the East Coast of the US, have eaten at the best restaurants in NYC, and am studying in Edinburgh—so I have eaten a lot of mussels. Then I was told that these mussels were comparatively ‘small’ for SA—that I might go to the trans-Skye to see ‘real’ SA mussels. And not only were the mussels massive, but they were the most succulent mussel meat I have ever tasted. The calamari was perfectly grilled. The varieties of breads made me want to forget the rest of the week in Cape Town and instead offer to volunteer in Moyo’s kitchen for free food for a week. I ate Ox Tail, Springbok, and Potjie. All fabulous!!!! The dinner was only made better by the company—Becks and Ritchie, and Beck’s friends Steve and Christine, who were lovely.

After dinner, we danced the night away (or at least till midnight when I thought I was going to fall asleep on the ground—I only had 2 hours of sleep and was really jet-lagged) to Goldfish. You must check out Goldfish’s music—for lack of ability to give a description that would do the band justice, I am just going to include their website on this post:

http://www.goldfishlive.com/

Hope you enjoy it!

‘Grow old with me, the best is yet to come’ –Robert Browning

Another year has gone by and I have reached the ripe old age of 24. Although, in my mild immaturity, 24 years seems like a lifetime (after all, it is my lifetime!), I know that the best is indeed yet to come. This birthday, which I thought would be rather anti-climactic, has turned out to be quite the celebration and several days of joy, laughter, and fun with precious friends. Birthdays are a unique time to make a friend feel cherished, special, and valued and my friends in Edinburgh have gone far above and beyond what was necessary to make me feel that way and more.

Friday, April 16th, the Canadian next door (BB) that I’ve mentioned so many times before throughout this blog, organized a big dinner at The Bon Vivant on Thistle Street in New Town. The dinner was a surprise and many of our close friends came to celebrate. The menu was right up my alley – especially the seared pigeon breast (considering everyone knows I feel like searing all of the pigeons outside of my room every morning at Churchill House). The espresso complimented with a shot of Kahlua was a perfect balance of earthy, bold, and rich (most of you know my minor obsession with good coffee!) and the sticky toffee pudding melted in your mouth as a delicious mixture of spice, gooey toffee, and cool icing, satisfying the way a good dessert should.

The rest of the weekend was littered with all of my favorite things and surprises, such as Jess’ incredible brownie-cake with fudge icing and white chocolate chunks and Mini Beck’s famous pink and yellow-icing cupcakes.

Monday, my actually birthday, however, was the day of days. It began with a late morning visit from Britt and Jared, hands overflowing with gifts, flowers, and candy. My darling Craig had sent two dozen yellow tulips, several pounds of pick-n-mix candy, and the blue zip Edinburgh hoodie I had been eyeing. Jared and Britt bought me a beautiful print from a local artist in Edinburgh and an (‘easy’) chicken cookbook (I love chicken more than anyone else in the world, bar perhaps Rebecca Jansch.) I was then whisked away to a surprise brunch with more close friends at a tea room on Hanover Street. Lunch lasted all afternoon, followed by some shopping with Laura and Mini Becks. There were even more surprises to follow later in the evening, with Laura posting about 15 hand-cut-out sheep (I love sheep) on my door with a main sheep bleeting ‘Why I love ewe’ and a massive tray of homemade cupcakes, topped with marzipan icing (my favorite!)

Being made such a fuss over was completely unnecessary, but made this birthday the most special one to date. Perhaps they always get better as time goes on, but this is one I will certainly not forget. It is these times, in my opinion, with dear friends and family that remind us how loved we are, that life is at its best--and knowing that so many more of these kinds of memories lie ahead, I can say with much assurance that the best indeed is yet to come.

South Africa!!!!!

I AM GOING TO SOUTH AFRICA!!!!!!! SA Becks invited me down to Cape Town to visit her while she was home for Easter holiday and my mother booked me a surprise ticket with her air miles for my birthday present to go. I have never been to the African continent before—and now I am heading towards the southern-most tip of it! I leave April 25th and am staying until May 4th.

Becks has planned out a while itinerary of things for us to do while I am there. I cannot wait!!!! It’s funny because I honestly don’t recall ever meeting a South African prior to coming to Edinburgh. Yet, arriving here, I have met many! In my group of friends at the University alone, there are 5—coming from Pretoria, Cape Town, Durban, and suburbs of Johannesburg. From these friends, I am becoming increasingly educated on the politics of South Africa—from apartheid and its legacy to the AIDs epidemic there (it has the highest AIDs rate of any country in the world). It is also an incredibly interesting place historically and culturally. The country has 11 official languages! I am looking forward to learning even more while I am there – and seeing all of the beauty landscapes I have heard about and seen in pictures.

International Night at my favorite club!

Last night was 'International Night' at the Dunbar Rotary club. The purpose of the night is to invite several of the local Ambassadorial scholars in the District and to have them come and give their speeches. William, Robin, and Aki all attended (in addition to myself).

First, I have to say how much I am enjoying getting to know the members in my host club. Dunbar is quite a large group, with an eclectic mix of personalities. I have never felt more welcome within a group my whole life. I think that is one of the neatest things about Rotary--you go overseas and automatically have an entire contingent of people who are excited to meet you, support you, and see you succeed--and they certainly show it!! When you speak with them, they make you feel like you are the most important person in that moment. They listen intently, give great advice, and can always make you laugh ;-) Rotarians are a rare and wonderful group of people and I am proud to have the opportunity to be a small part of their organization.

For dinner, I chose the roast chicken (are you surprised???) and had the Banoffee pudding for dessert (yum!) I even brought along my own dessert for the evening as well. I figured since it was 'International Night', I would bake something 'American'--so I made a peach cobbler! I know what you're thinking...that an apple cobbler is more traditionally 'American'--but the apples at Tesco's weren't looking so appealing. It wasn't the best cobbler I've made, but the members of the club seemed to enjoy it nonetheless (and I get an 'A' for effort, right???)

I was given a tape of David Laird's bagpiping music (he is one of the members of the Dunbar club--he piped in the Haggis at the Burn's Night Supper at the end of January). I had told him that I loved bagpipe music, so he offered to make me a mixed tape--and actually remembered and did it!! What a sweet man.

I am beginning to think I fit in quite well as a Scot though--I love haggis, bagpipe music, and red tartan. I love ceilidhs, castles, and sheep too! I'm even loving the public transport--it gets annoying at times not having a car, but I appreciate the convenience of the buses and trains and am getting along quite well without a car (surprisingly!) Though if anyone reading this wants to give me a ride to the closest Costco's, I would be eternally grateful!!!

Chinese New Year

'On the Eve of Chinese New Year, supper is a feast with families. Food will include such items as pigs, ducks, chicken and sweet delicacies.' (Wikipedia, 'Chinese New Year', 2010)

Focus on the word 'feast' in this Wikipedia entry for 'Chinese New Year' in Wikipedia. This is exactly what my 6th floor Churchill House Kitchen had last night. Today is the Chinese New Year, the most important of traditional Chinese holidays. It is also referred to as the 'Lunar New Year' because it is based on the lunisolar Chinese calendar. The importance of this holiday was reflected in the magnitude that it was celebrated at Richmond place yesterday and today. The kitchens all throughout Res are plastered in a vast array of flashy bright red and yellow paper decorations, coupled with endless steamers full of dumplings and dishes of sweet meats.

Geng, a Chinese Phd student living across the hall from me suggested that the hall celebrate Chinese New Year together (I think Geng was beginning to worry about the fact that he has never seen me use the stove or oven to prepare a meal...the sad truth is that the microwave, Tesco roast chickens, and take-out Beetlejuice and Kilmanjaro are my usual meal options). There are 3 other Chinese students on the hall, so they offered to cook while Becks, Jess, and I offered our services to provide an American dessert. The food was incredible. Ling made homeade turkey dumplings. I was offered to roll out a few, but remembering back to my tortilla making abilities (or rather lack thereof) in Guatemala two years ago, I politely declined, stating that I was doing everyone a favor by just watching...! Geng was the master chef of the event, preparing a roast leg of lamb (Note: Geng prepared for this day at LEAST a month in advance. He made 3 full roast legs of lamb in the preceding month to make sure he would get it right for the actual feast day), a delectable fish dish, and mussels. Yin-Hu made what to me tasted like sweet BBQ chicken and Jacqueline (a welcome guest from the other 6th fl kitch) brought Asian lettuce wraps. As you can probably imagine, we ate for hours. And hours. And then continued to eat. I strategically wore a jumper-dress so as my stomach expanded, it would not be confined by tight waistbands :-)

The best part about the evening though was getting to know the Chinese students on the hall and learning about such a significant tradition in their culture. I loved hearing stories about how Chinese New Year is celebrated within each of my friend's families and getting the opportunity to replicate some of those halfway across the world in Edinburgh.

Burn's Night

I apologize for the extreme gap in my writing...for some reason, time seems to go by faster than usual here in Edinburgh. I find myself waking up Monday morning to start the week and I barely blink and it's Friday. I suppose that's indicative of me enjoying myself ;-)

Two major happenings have occurred since my last post: I tried the infamous Scottish national dish, Haggis-and I went to my first real Burn's supper-both experiences which I very much enjoyed.

First, I shall digress a bit on the Haggis. It is certainly not a dish for the squeamish--as it is a dish containing sheep's heart, liver, and lungs, minced with onion, oatmeal, spices, and salt, traditionally simmered in the sheep's stomach for several hours. It is a description not immediately appealing to one's appetite, but I must say I found the first taste surprisingly flavorful, with a hint of nutty-ness and bite, along with a delightfully oat-y texture. Many of my American friends were not quite as fond of the Haggis--but in its defense (as I do feel oddly obliged to defend the dear Haggis)--in my opinion, it tastes very similar to American-style Thanksgiving stuffing made with sausage! Now mind you, stuffing contains things called giblets, which are essentially the little organs leftover from the Turkey when you buy it--it could be the kidneys, heart, neck, etc. So to me, it is rather odd that an American who eats stuffing on Thanksgiving, cannot stomach Haggis.

My first Burn's supper was experienced at the Dunbar Rotary club on the 1st of Feb. Burn's Night is traditionally held on 25 Jan (Robbie's birthday), but the suppers can generally be held within a week or two of the 25th. The dinner was held at the golf course in Dunbar and most of the Rotarians were in traditional dress (kilts and tartan galore). Everyone looked so Scottish!! The dinner began with David 'piping in the haggis' and Tom (the club president) addressing and stabbing the Haggis. Then my host Rotarian, Thelma, gave the Reply to the Toast to the Lassies--which she creatively re-worked to include aspects of the Dunbar club.

The dinner was a full course of Haggis, neeps (turnips), and tatties (mashed potatoes), followed by a dessert of raspberry cranachan and homeade shortbread cookies from Rona's sweet shoppe. After dinner, several members (including myself!) got up and recited a Burn's poem, in memory of the legendary poet. I read Castle Gordon. Unfortunately, I was not nearly as entertaining as most of the Rotarians who got up, but I was happy to do it and is it bizarre that I find I like reciting poetry??? One of the Rotarians did a rendition of McGonagall's (one of Scotland's notoriously terrible poets) Tay Bridge Disaster, which invoked much laughter from the crowd. It was honestly the best night I have had thus far in the semester.

Sadly, I do not have pictures to document this experience, as naturally, I forgot my camera! ;-( However, I found a nice picture of Haggis online that I shall include for your viewing pleasure.